Interview with Denis from MASH Gastropub 采访:法国顶级厨师

 

OriginallyfromMarseille,France,DeniscametoShenz...



Originally from Marseille, France, Denis came to Shenzhen about 18 months ago. He came with a wealth of culinary experience having previously trained and worked in São Paulo at D.O.M., Sukiyabashi Jiro in Tokyo and The Tokyo American Club.

来自法国马赛的Denis18个月前来到深圳。他有丰富的烹饪经验,曾在圣保罗、东京的数寄屋桥次郎和东京美侨俱乐部工作。

Since then Denis has opened his first Gastropub in Shuiwei named ‘MASH’, which is fast developing a reputation for delivering some of the best and most honest food in the City.

来到这里后,Denis在水围开了他的第一家美食酒吧,店名是MASH,并以其顶级和实在的食物迅速在这座城市走红。

Here at ShenzhenEat we have been lucky enough to experience the food on numerous occasions and have seen it develop first hand over its first few months. From a steak on its opening night to a gourmet burger last week it has been great to see the development of one of the brightest brands in Shenzhen.

我们ShenzhenEat很荣幸有多次机会尝试了他的食物,我们看着他开业并一起走过数月。从开业当晚的牛扒到上星期的美味汉堡,能看到一个如此闪亮的品牌在深圳发展是极好的。

It is clear as soon as you spend a small amount of time with Denis that he is extremely passionate and knowledgeable about food, I therefore found it curious that he chose to open a restaurant that was so heavily focused on burgers.

跟Denis相处一会儿就会发现他非常热情并对食物甚是了解,所以我很好奇他竟然会选择开一间汉堡店。

Q: Judging from your resume, you can cook just about anything, can you tell us why you focused on burgers?A: A burger is like a blank A4 sheet to me, what you do with it is up to you. I can put lobster tail on it, wasabi foam, foie gras…. I use cutting edge techniques with our food, I use Sous Vide, foaming and other products and techniques more commonly found in modern kitchens. I don’t do it to be posh, I do it because I like it. To me it is my way to have fun with a burger, to see customer’s reactions of ‘wow, there is foam on my burger’. The last foaming I did was a form of white balsamic, I find the foaming process pretty interesting by binding some of the proteins of the product you want to bind. I don’t think that any technique is too good for a burger, people shouldn’t just throw some potatoes on the side and then serve it – so for me it’s about pushing the boundaries, but then also our ‘Farm Boy Burger’ is just red cheddar and pickle –  so a burger allows me to produce a range of options that keeps me happy as a chef.

Q:从你的工作经历看来,你会烹饪任何菜式,为什么你会专注于汉堡呢?

A:汉堡对于我来说就是一张空白的A4纸,你要怎么做都是取决于你。我可以放龙虾尾、芥末泡沫、鹅肝…我会使用如今现代厨房普遍的尖端技术,低温烹饪、起泡等一些产品和技术。我不是因为它们时髦才使用,而是因为我喜欢它们。对于我来说这就是我和汉堡打交道的方法,我想看到客人的反应“哇,我的汉堡上有泡沫耶”。我上一次做的泡沫是白香醋,我觉得通过把你想要捆绑的一些食材蛋白质捆绑在一起的起泡过程很有趣。我不认为这些烹饪技术对于一个汉堡来说太过了,人们不应该把几个土豆放在一旁然后就上菜了 – 所以对于我来说,我就是要打破陈规,但是我们的Farm Boy Burger就仅仅是红车打芝士和酸黄瓜 – 所以汉堡能够给我提供一系列的选择并让我保持当厨师最大的乐趣。

Q: If someone had only had a fast food burger, and never tried a gourmet burger, what would you recommend they try on your menu?To me, I need our customers to realize that our food is about the beef, if you go to a fast food outlet then the meat is barely meat, no disrespect, they do a good job of serving cheap food but the main taste of our burger is beef – it’s a certain type of beef, it’s Black Angus, it’s not Wagyu, it’s not Pork and Beef – it’s just 100% Black Angus.

I have certain techniques to enhance the flavor of the beef which are MSG free, to enhance the nutty flavor of the burger. So I would recommend to anyone that came to try our food should eat the cheapest burger we have, which is the ‘Farm Boy’ (red cheddar and pickle), it’s the most basic we have. And that way if they like it they can come back, perhaps they can then try our ‘Cheesy Easy’ burger. Our ‘Cheesy Easy’ burger has Taleggio Cheese on it which we melt at an extremely low temperature in a copper pan, so small that you can barely fit a spoon into it, we melt the cheese and then pour it onto the burger – when the burger comes out of the grill it has a little bit of grease to it, so you’re basically greasing cheese – and that’s an amazing way to do a cheeseburger for me.

We try and keep the customers entertained, we do a new burger every week and we print the menu’s every day, but the first burger anyone should try here is the ‘Farm Boy’.

Q:如果某人只尝试过快餐汉堡,但从来没有尝试过真正的美味汉堡,你如何向他推荐你的菜式呢?

A:对于我来说,我希望客人能够意识到我们的食物最大的特点就是来自于牛肉,如果你去快餐店,你会发现汉堡里的肉仅仅就只是肉,不是有意冒犯,在向你提供廉价食物这方面他们做的很好,但我们食物口味的来源是牛肉 – 是黑安格斯牛,不是和牛,不是猪肉和牛肉 – 是百分百的黑安格斯牛肉。

我有一些烹饪技术能够保证牛肉无味精,保证汉堡的坚果风味。所以我建议任何到店的朋友尝试我们最便宜的汉堡,Farm Boy(红车打芝士和酸黄瓜),这是我们的基本款。如果你们喜欢并再次回来尝试的话,可以试试我们的Cheesy Easy汉堡。这个汉堡有塔雷吉欧芝士,我们会在一个铜盘中用超低温将它融化,它仅仅只有汤勺那么小,融化后我们会将它淋在汉堡上 – 汉堡出炉后会有一些油分,所以芝士也会带有油分,这种烹饪芝士汉堡的技术对我来说太惊奇了。

我们一直在尝试并保持让我们的顾客吃得开心,每周我们都会推出一种新汉堡,每天我们都会印制新菜单,但每个人第一次尝的汉堡应该是Farm Boy。

Q: We have recently seen a rise of Gourmet Burgers around Shenzhen, what makes yours different?A: There are a lot of different styles of burgers and I won’t criticize anyone else’s – but I think my thing is I am here cooking the burger, 99% of the time I am cooking each of the burgers and I take things with a fine dining approach, all my ingredients are imported, even the flour for the bread is from France. I think we have more of a Euro burger, for instance, it’s not an American burger, it doesn’t have ketchup on it, I am using a Dijon wholegrain mustard, we have an extremely expensive Italian Taleggio cheese, which is expensive for a burger but we can afford to put on our burgers without raising the price too much – so what I am trying to do is to create a product that I am happy with as a fine dining chef.

Q:最近我们看到许多美食汉堡在深圳崛起,你认为相比之下你们餐厅有什么不同吗?

A:有许多不同种类的汉堡,我也不会去批判任何人 – 但我觉得,我就是在这里做汉堡,在餐厅99%的时间我都在做汉堡,我把他们当做高级餐厅的料理来做,所有的食材都是进口的,就连做面包的面粉都是来自于法国的。

我觉得我们有更多的欧式汉堡,比如说,都不是美式汉堡,上面没有番茄酱,我用的是第戎全麦芥末酱,我们有非常昂贵的意大利塔雷吉欧芝士,这对于一个汉堡来说是非常昂贵的,但我们不会因此就抬高太多的价格 – 所以我一直在尝试做的就是用高级餐厅厨师的身份去烹饪我乐享其成的食物。

Q: What made you choose Shenzhen?A: I wanted to leave Japan, I had been there for 7 years and I probably should have left after 5. I wanted a place that I could own my business without taking too much of a risk financially, a place that was dynamic, quick access to Hong Kong for travel and also to avoid cold weather! My partner, my wife, has some family here and that certainly helped to narrow it down.

Q:为什么你会选择深圳这个城市呢?

A:我想离开日本,我在那里呆了7年了,但我应该在第五年之后就离开的。我想要一个能经营自己的餐厅并且不用承担太多经济风险的地方,一个有活力并能快速通往香港的地方,同时要避免寒冷的天气。

我的同伴,就是我的妻子,有一些家人在这边,所以让我缩小了范围。

Q: Tell me about your Wife, I believe she is the front of house here at MASH?A: Along with the food standards, the ingredients we put into the food and the techniques we bring to the kitchen my wife and partner Hana also comes from a food and beverage and hotel back-round, she used to work for the Ritz-Carlton Hotel as a Club Lounge Assistant Manager for four years so she knows a bit about it.Hana is the balance to my madness, the equaliser, I’m the vinegar and she is the lump of honey that makes the place popular. A funny story is that Hana keeps a little black book of all the customers that she knows the names of, and she notes the little things she knows about them, and she actually studies it. What Hana has managed to do it take the experience of working in Hotels, where it’s gentleman and ladies serving gentleman and ladies and managed to bring it here but make it a little bit cooler, a little bit less rigid and she has done that with a brilliant touch!

Hana also managed to bring in some of those training standards that she was so used to from working in Hotels, so many restaurants fail in terms of customer service because they assume common sense, and because of that she has given a lot of confidence to the staff – they are confident about what they do, they are not scared about what they do.

Q:跟我谈谈你的妻子吧,她应该负责餐厅的店面吧?

A:就像我们的食物标准和所用的食材和技术一样优秀的是,我的妻子Hana也曾从事饮食行业和酒店管理,她曾在丽兹卡尔顿酒店的俱乐部休息室担任了4年的副经理,所以她对这一行有一定的了解。

Hana是我生气时的天平,我是醋那她就是能让一个地方人见人爱的蜂蜜。有一个有趣的事情,Hana有一个小小的黑色本子,上面记录着所有她知道名字的客人,任何小小的事情她都不放过,她都把他们记录下来了,然后她真的会去研究它们。

Hana所做的事情都是来源于她在酒店工作的经历,那是一个绅士淑女服务绅士淑女的地方,她成功地把那一套带到了这里,但又有一点酷,又没那么严肃,她真的太厉害了!

Hana也把酒店的一些训练员工的标准带到了这里,许多餐厅倒闭都是因为在客户服务这方面他们都局限于一般的常识,因此她给员工带去很多自信心 – 他们对自己所做的事很有自信,并且不会畏惧自己所做的事。

Q: Why did you choose Shuiwei for your location?  A: I wanted to avoid somewhere that was surrounded by foreigners, I looked at places like Shekou, and I looked very closely, but for me the cool has gone from Shekou, it is now just a dormitory for foreigners. I’m not crazy enough to open in Baishizhou as I think it is an incredibly difficult place to open up a business.

So, for me Shuiwei has a lot of history and a lot of flexibility, kind of a new face right now, it’s not an old red light district like it used to be or a place for Hong Kong people to have their second wives. It’s very close to Coco Park – but it’s not Coco Park. Rents are still affordable and there are lots of residential buildings around!

Q:为什么你会选择水围这个地方呢?

A:我不想开在太多外国人的地方。我也看过蛇口这些地方,但对于我来说蛇口没有以前那么好了,它现在就是外国人的聚集地。我也不会疯了一样在白石洲开店,因为那个地方真的很难创业。

所以,对于我来说,水围更加有历史底蕴和灵活性,是一个新兴的地方,它再也不是旧的红灯区和香港人养小三的地方。它离购物公园很近,但又不是购物公园。租金也承担得起并且附近有很多的居民区。

Q: It’s clear to see you are achieving great success with MASH right now, so what’s the future?A: That’s a very difficult question, honestly, the future of MASH is to just be MASH. We haven’t done a grand opening, we are still perfecting some things and I am a bit of a perfectionist. I am not even sure that we even will have a grand opening – I think it’s a bit posh and I don’t like posh, I like to be understated.

As a brand it is to open in another location, we are already talking to few locations right now, either in Shenzhen or in Guangzhou, so that’s for right now and then 2017 we are looking at the possibility of franchising.

Q:现在很清楚地看到MASH做得很成功,未来有一些什么打算呢?

A:这个问题真的很难,老实说,MASH的未来就是要成为更好的MASH。我们没有一个盛大的开业,我们只专注在一些事上,而我是有一点完美主义者的。我也不确定我们会有一个盛大的开业 – 我觉得那样太奢侈了,然而我不喜欢奢华高调,我喜欢低调一些。

作为一个品牌,我们也会在其他地方选址开店,我们现在已经在讨论一些地方了,无论是在深圳还是在广州,这就是现在的计划,然后在2017年我们会计划特许经营权的。

Q: Finally, when you get time off, where do you like to eat?A: McDonalds.No but, I like to go and visit my friends, I like to go to Elba, which is at the St. Regis Hotel, I like to go to The Westin Hotel, Jose is a good friend, Lars was a good friend, Paul is a good friend. I like to go to Frankie’s because they are good friends as well and they pay us a visit and so I like to pay them a visit.

But, me personally, I like to go to ‘Din Tai Fung’ which is next to ‘Pizza Express’ in the MixC Plaza in Luohu, I think it’s the best ‘Xiao long Bao’ (meaning delicate dumplings in bamboo steamers) in the World, and I think their fried rice is beautiful, I go there just to order their fried rice!

Q:最后,你休息的时候一般喜欢去哪里吃东西呢?

A: 麦当劳。其实也不是啦,但是我喜欢去见朋友,我喜欢去瑞吉酒店的Elba,喜欢威斯汀酒店,Jose是好朋友,Lars是好朋友,Paul也是好朋友。我喜欢去Frankie’s 因为他们也是很好的朋友,他们也来拜访我们所以我也会去拜访他们。

Location: 2-5 Huanggang park street, Futian district, Shenzhen (at the crossing of huanggang park 6th street and 7th street, behind Yunding school)地址:深圳市福田区皇岗公园街2-5(皇岗公园6街和7街交界处,云顶学校旁边)

Opening Hours: Wednesday to Sunday 5pm – 11.30pm

营业时间:周三至周日 晚5点-11点半

By Metro乘坐地铁

Fumin Metro Exit D 福民地铁站D出口



Walk out of the metro and walk straight forwards. 从地铁口出来一直走



Turn right before you get to McDonalds. 在麦当劳前面右转



Walk straight 一直走



When you get to the ‘Imperian Banquet Building’ on your left, turn left. 看到在你在这栋楼左边时,转左。



Turn right before ‘Juice Baby Café’ 在Juice Baby Café前面右转



You will pass a school on your left hand side, keep following the road forwards and it will turn left.

你会经过左手边的一家学校,一直走然后会向左延伸。





Walk forwards and you will see MASH Gastropub on your right hand side! 向前走你就会看到MASH美食酒吧在你的右前方啦!



Long-press the QR Code, tap “Scan QR Code in image” to follow “Shenzheneat” on wechat.


    关注 Shenzheneat


微信扫一扫关注公众号

0 个评论

要回复文章请先登录注册