食欲时间 006 你一定会爱上的红酒炖牛肉（Boeuf Bourguignon）

以牛肉为主角，但味道层次却不单一的乡村菜。胡萝卜、蘑菇、洋葱浸煮的汤汁鲜甜，百里香和月桂叶带出红酒的清新馥郁，烧汁浓厚的牛肉带有微酸滋味。至于口感，牛肉绵软但不酥烂，入口即化却又保持着完整的块状。（文末附JuliaChild原版食谱。）...



前段时间看了电影《朱莉与茱莉亚》，一边痛苦于Julia Child的嗓音，一边享受着她带来的道道美食和食欲精神。

片中浓墨重彩的提到了Boeuf Bourguignon，一道从乡间菜演变来的法国名菜。boeuf是牛肉，bourguignon是大名鼎鼎的红酒产区勃艮第地区。

看完电影当即被种草，第二天找来原版菜谱，并且为了恶补葡萄酒知识看完了一本书并跟行家去了酒行选酒，第三天就进行了红酒炖牛肉的实践，从头到尾一气呵成没有一丝拖延，关于吃我的生产力竟然可以如此惊人。

毕竟从某个角度来说，食欲是最纯净最可爱最缠绵最热烈的欲望了。

并且我认为，把一个热爱食物的人叫做吃货，是片面且不负责任的。

一道菜从清晨开始准备，煎炸炖烤五个多小时。等到第二天才装盘上桌，只为获得最佳风味。然而当你吃下第一口时，会认同我：一切都是值得的。那个时刻，我感受到了大自然对人类的爱。

这道菜以牛肉为主角，但味道层次却不单一。胡萝卜、蘑菇、洋葱浸煮的汤汁鲜甜，百里香和月桂叶带出红酒的清新馥郁，红酒又使得烧汁浓厚的牛肉带有微酸滋味。至于口感，牛肉绵软但不酥烂，入口即化却又保持着完整的块状。

这道菜材料步骤繁多，但是做起来非常简单，几乎没有失败的可能，唯一需要的就是耐心。

原方六人份，我做两人份吃了三顿，看情况按比例增加减少就好。

原料（六人份）

• 牛肉1365g（3磅）
• 培根170g（6盎司）
• 胡萝卜1根（我放了3根小的，看喜好吧）
• 紫洋葱1颗
• 口蘑455g（1磅）
• 珍珠洋葱6-8个（普通白洋葱2个）
• 大蒜2瓣
• 橄榄油45ml（分成15ml+30ml两部分）
• 黄油50g（完全可以减半）
• 盐5ml
• 白胡椒粉1.25ml
• 面粉30ml
• 红酒750ml（1瓶）
• 牛肉汤750ml（可用清水或煮培根的水代替）
• 番茄酱15ml
• 百里香2.5ml
• 月桂叶（香叶）一片碾碎

准备完毕全家福。

关于牛肉：

牛腱、牛腩、牡蛎肉都可以，带些雪花脂肪的更香。

关于红酒：

Julia Child推荐用Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhône, Bordeaux-St. Émilion, or Burgundy等红酒来做，我完全看不懂...

只知道她说用醇厚年轻的红酒就可以，于是买了Asti的Barbera，DOCG等级，14度，非常适合红肉，而且非常便宜。我做两人份的只用了三分之一，剩下佐餐喝掉了。

Btw，意大利Asti产区的起泡酒很不错。

Btw2，红酒配红肉，白酒配白肉，红白指的都是葡萄酒。

关于厨具：

如果你有美美哒珐琅铸铁锅最好，耐热的砂锅、可进烤箱的不锈钢炖锅都可以。

只要能进烤箱都是好厨具！

开始制作！

1. 培根切成细条，1400g水（我也不知道为什么要这么多水，其实900ml就够了）烧开，放培根煮10分钟捞出沥干，如果没有牛肉汤可以把培根水留着替代用。
2. 煮培根时处理牛肉，切成5cm见方大块，用厨房纸巾把表面的水吸干干，Julia说这样才能煎出棕色。
3. 处理完牛肉还不到十分钟，趁现在把胡萝卜切片，紫洋葱切丝。
4. 捞出培根之后烤箱上下火预热230℃。
5. 15ml橄榄油下锅，烧热之后放入培根中火煸炒，直到出好多油，培根变成棕色，捞出培根，油留在锅里。
6. 继续把锅里的油烧到刚刚冒烟，放牛肉进去煎，每一面都要煎到棕色。
7. 剪完牛肉继续用剩下的油炒胡萝卜和洋葱，洋葱变色略透明并出香味了就可以停了，不用太熟。
8. 把培根牛肉蔬菜倒入炖锅，撒上盐、胡椒、面粉拌匀，让牛肉每一面都沾上面粉。
9. 炖锅不加盖子，放入烤箱烤4分钟取出，把牛肉翻一遍，再烤四分钟。这样牛肉的表面就有一层硬壳了，在之后的炖烤中可保持丰富肉汁。
10. 烤箱调温度至165℃。
11. 烤锅里加入红酒和牛肉汤（或培根汤或水），漫过所有食材即可，加入番茄酱，百里香，月桂叶，大蒜片，放炉子上大火煮15分钟左右至沸腾。
12. 烤锅盖上盖子放入烤箱烤4小时，至叉子可以轻易穿透牛肉。（两人份的烤三小时就可以）
13. 烤牛肉同时制作配菜。蘑菇切片或者十字切成四份（切片比较好煎），吸干水分，我们同样需要蘑菇也是棕色。30ml橄榄油和50g黄油下锅烧热到黄油冒出丰富泡沫，蘑菇入锅。注意不能让蘑菇太拥挤，太拥挤也不能出棕色哟。煎完蘑菇煎珍珠洋葱，普通白洋葱就切成块煎熟。
14. 烤锅取出，筛出肉汤，撇去浮油煮沸，浓缩到比较稠的状态（太稠可以加水），煮好尝一尝需不需要再加盐。筛出的牛肉上铺上煎好的配菜，把浓稠的肉汤浇上去。
15. 直接吃的话，就把浇好汤汁的锅子放炉上再炖2、3分钟，装盘或者直接把美美哒铸铁锅端上桌子。
16. 我建议第二天吃，风味更佳。筛出的汤汁不要收太浓，调好味之后倒回锅子，晾凉之后盖好盖子放进冷藏室，第二天吃之前15分钟拿出来，放五分钟，再小火加热十分钟，过程中轻轻挪动食材防止粘锅。

加上主食上桌。

主食可以配煮土豆、黄油面条、米饭，我配的是法棍丸子。

因为有干掉吃不了的法棍，于是切成块，加点牛奶让干法棍吸水，再加适量面粉，打一个鸡蛋进去，撒一把罂粟籽，拌匀捏成丸子，用橄榄油或者黄油煎熟。配红酒炖牛肉很合适。





咬一口，真是入口即化。

Bon Appétit！

以下为原版英文菜谱，六人份。

From Mastering the Art of French Cooking

by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck (Volume One). Copyright 1961 by Alfred A. Knopf, Inc.

As is the case with most famous dishes, there are more ways than one to arrive at a good boeuf bourguignon. Carefully done, and perfectly flavored, it is certainly one of the most delicious beef dishes concocted by man, and can well be the main course for a buffet dinner. Fortunately you can prepare it completely ahead, even a day in advance, and it only gains in flavor when reheated.

Vegetable and Wine Suggestions
Boiled potatoes are traditionally served with this dish. Buttered noodles or steamed rice may be substituted. If you also wish a green vegetable, buttered peas would be your best choice. Serve with the beef a fairly full-bodied, young red wine, such as Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhône, Bordeaux-St. Émilion, or Burgundy.

For 6 people

6-ounce chunk of bacon

Remove rind, and cut bacon into lardons (sticks, 1/4 inch thick and 1 1/2 inches long). Simmer rind and bacon for 10 minutes in 1 1/2 quarts of water. Drain and dry.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

A 9- to 10-inch, fireproof casserole, 3 inches deep
1 Tb olive oil or cooking oil
1 Slotted spoon

Sauté the bacon in the oil over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon. Set casserole aside. Reheat until fat is almost smoking before you sauté the beef.

3 lbs. lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes

Dry the beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Sauté it, a few pieces at a time, in the hot oil and bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the bacon.

1 sliced carrot
1 sliced onion

In the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the sautéing fat.

1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
2 Tb flour

Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with the salt and pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly with the flour. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of preheated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat and return to oven for 4 minutes more. (This browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust.) Remove casserole, and turn oven down to 325 degrees.

3 cups of full-bodied, young red wine, such as one of those suggested for serving, or a Chianti
2 to 3 cups brown beef stock or canned beef bouillon
1 Tb tomato paste
2 cloves mashed garlic
1/2 tsp thyme
Crumbled bay leaf
Blanched bacon rind

Stir in the wine, and enough stock or bouillon so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs, and bacon rind. Bring to simmer on top of the stove. Then cover the casserole and set in lower third of preheated oven. Regulate heat so liquid simmers
very slowly for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.

18 to 24 small white onions, brown-braised in stock
1 pound quartered fresh mushrooms, sautéed in butter

While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms. Set them aside until needed.

When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms over the meat.

Skim fat off the sauce. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons of stock or canned bouillon. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. Recipe may be completed in advance to this point.

Parsley sprigs

For immediate serving: Cover the casserole and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in its casserole, or arrange the stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles, or rice, and decorated with parsley.

For later serving: When cold, cover and refrigerate. About 15 to 20 minutes before serving, bring to the simmer, cover, and simmer very slowly for 10 minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.

    关注 田小辣椒