Pixian Broad Paste｜豆瓣师傅收了个“洋徒弟”

YoucannotmakeauthenticSichuandisheswithoutPixianBroadBeanPaste....




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久闻郫县豆瓣世界闻名，2016年5月11日，来自美国波士顿Broad、目前在四川大学做语言学老师的何迈克（Michael Herrera）来到成都西郊的郫县，在鹃城豆瓣厂拜师学习做豆瓣的技艺。

一上午的“勤学苦练”让迈克感叹：“川菜好吃，但做豆瓣酱这门传统 的技艺实在是难得又难学！”

时光回溯到2014年7月6日，德国总理默克尔访问成都期间，专程到成都的神仙树农贸市场掏5块钱买了一袋郫县豆瓣。她知道，一小袋郫县豆瓣里藏着川菜的秘密。



Michael Herrera, an American linguistics teacher at Sichuan University, just wanted As a Chinese saying goes: “You cannot make authentic Sichuan dishes without Pixian Broad Bean Paste.”to know why.



郫县地处川西平原腹心地带，位于成都市西北近郊。因为"杜宇化鹃"的美丽传说，郫县又称鹃城。郫县豆瓣的制作技艺位列第二批国家级非物质文化遗产名录，而说来奇怪，只有郫县水和气候才能酿造出这"川菜之魂"的原汁原味。



At the invitation of website gochengdu.cn, Michael made a special visit to a famous broad bean paste processor in northwestern Chengdu’s Pixian County.

Pixian Broad Bean Paste (郫县豆瓣), often called as "the soul of Sichuan cuisine", is an indispensable flavoring in cooking many local dishes. The workmanship for making the paste has been listed as an item of China’s National Intangible Cultural Heritage.记者和迈克见到了晒场车间主任李方亮师傅（中国非物质文化遗产郫县豆瓣技艺县级传承人）。一口口盛满豆瓣酱的大缸子整齐排列着，一簇簇传统又朴实的味道在初夏艳阳的照耀下绽放。李师傅指着一口并不特别的缸子说："看，这口缸里的酱是2009年开始制作的。"的确，缸里的豆瓣酱颜色更深，酱香更浓。迈克好奇地拿着木勺舀起一勺，还开起了玩笑："七岁了，该上小学了！"惹得大家大笑起来。


Li Fangliang is named as an inheritor of the paste-making workmanship. At that time when we saw him he was busy stirring the paste in a big light-brown earthen jar with a long bamboo stick, which gave off a strong pungent aroma.



李师傅每天早晨不到7点便要带着徒弟们捣酱，把酱翻个底朝天。他说："中午太阳太毒，我们必须抓紧早上的时间工作。"七年的更深露重、七年的晨辉夕阴，都凝聚在这七岁的豆瓣酱里。

酿造这七年的豆瓣酱，并不是每一个制作的人都能够把控到位，如若火候没有掌握好，豆瓣或生或焦，便没了本该有的滋味。"这种豆瓣酱一般不会有人在家里做，专业的川菜师傅才能掌握好最佳的煮的时间。"



带好了蓝色头罩，李师傅拿出一根长长的竹制捣酱的棍子，放进缸里开始捣酱。李师傅捣起酱来轻松自在、游刃有余，却让迈克看得连连摇头："太不容易了。这工作只是看上去轻松罢了！"要从缸底将豆瓣酱翻到面上，将干掉的豆瓣覆盖，迈克的面部表情不再像一开始那么轻松自在了。迈克看得心服口服，手机的相机快门一直没停过。



Li almost does this every day since he was 16, always dressed in the same clothing that is always immaculately clean.



Impressed by Li's skillful operations, Michael tried it himself with eagerness, but only after about 20 minutes he gave up with a sigh: "It isn't so easy as it looks!" He took up his camera to record the movements of Li, adept, graceful and consistent.



"技艺的学习和传承都是苦差事，别说七年了，要是有年轻人愿意沉下心来学习一年，基本上也就出师了。"在送走"徒弟们"的路上，要路过两排巨硕的大缸。李师傅让迈克猜里面装的是什么，这可难倒了这位美国"徒弟"。李师傅告诉他："这些缸子都有50年的历史了，里面装的是豆豉，酿了快一年了。时候到了，我们会敲下缸上的水泥，把黑黑的豆豉取出来。"

时间沉淀技艺，态度铸造匠人。"川菜之魂"的酿造，为生生不息传统和精益求精的精神赋予了完美的定义。



During the break, Li pointed at one of the jars and said: "Look, the sauce inside it has been kept since 2009, and the fermentation is still in progress."

You can see the surprise on Michael's face, but he soon covered it up with a witticism: "Seven years old! It's ready to go to school!" Generally speaking, the older the paste is, the darker the color is and the better the quality is.



Every day Li starts work early, at around half past five in the morning. "We have to," he said, "You must avoid the scorching sun heat at midday, especially in summer."

"I make the broad bean paste every day and use it in cooking every day," he said, "My life will become flavorless without the paste."

(部分图片由何迈克Micheal Herrera提供)

(Some pictures are provided by Micheal Herrera)

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