YOUNIVERSE｜主题VOL.3情绪感知
人，生而皆有情绪，如人饮水，冷暖自知。情绪是多么抽象且难以形容的东西。存在即被感知，服装像是具象的载体若有了灵魂一样，有了情绪。这将会是怎样的一种景象？...
人，生而皆有情绪，如人饮水，冷暖自知。情绪是多么抽象且难以形容的东西。存在即被感知，服装像是具象的载体若有了灵魂一样，有了情绪, 这将会是怎样的一种景象？今天，视觉传达设计系多维设计工作室则将为大家推送出“主题VOL.4情绪感知”, 第四个主题形象概念阐释与部分介绍片展示。同你一起感知存在，体验情绪。
▲ 情绪感知主题预告片“情绪肆意的时代，我们缺少的不是喜、怒、哀、乐，而是放慢脚步，用心感知。无情绪，不感知，不是没有情绪，而是不要被情绪左右，学会感知它，正视它，接纳它，表达它，管理它。当把情绪融于设计中，当一件衣服有了属于自己的情绪，服装变成了情绪的载体，变成了表达情绪的一种语言。服装与情绪，知行合一。”
"In the era where emotion is vented without restraint,what we lack is not pleasure, anger, sorrow and joy, but the ability ofslowing down and perceiving with our heart.No emotion, no perception means do not let yourself being controlled by emotions rather than havingno emotions. We need to learn how to perceive our emotion, face up to it, accept it,express it and manage it. When you integrate your emotion into a design and when a piece of clothingis granted with its own emotion,this clothing thus turns to the carrier of emotion and a kind of languagefor expressing emotion.Clothes and emotion become an integral whole ofknowledge and action."
▲ 情绪感知册子预告
中国美术学院“染织与服装设计系服装专业”与“视觉传达设计系多维设计工作室”联合毕业设计展览将在2016年5月27日至2016年6月2日期间展出，小伙伴赶紧约起来吧！
▲ 情绪感知成衣预告
部分服装设计访谈
柏璟辉《nexus》
说说你的主题吧创意阐述：灵感源于建筑与人的关系讨论对冰冷的城市建筑与人？生活的方式？态度？活着？的思考当下，我们仿佛置身于战场穿着战甲带着面具，生怕受到一丝丝伤害。
Myinspiration comes from the relationship between buildings and human beings.Discussionon buildings in cold cities and human beings? Life style? Attitude? Why are we living in this world?It seems as if we were on a battlefield, wearing armors and masks. We are afraid of beingslightly hurt.
服装的廓形方面会偏建筑感，结构会联系盔甲来做，利用盔甲中的穿搭要素和结构来体现自己的设计（体现人们对自己的保护与对外界的防御。
建筑里提取的主要元素是楼梯，楼梯在建筑中的意义能让空间更加有纵深感，打破建筑简单的形体，使建筑富有生命力，楼梯的象征意义就是一种上升感，代表人们向上进取得追求。
设计的初衷是在思考时间万物的联系，围绕着建筑元素进行发散，这次毕设做的是建筑里的阶梯，然后联系当下人的生活来做一个灵感发散点。当下的我们大多都是离开自己的父母亲朋，在外打拼漂泊，什么事情都要靠自己，有的时候我们会埋怨自己工作太忙，每天俩点一线朝九晚五庸碌也忙碌，也许你并不知道自己在忙于什么，生活没那么多情致，工作却也多多少少的枯燥无味。也许你很幸运的在忙碌的同时也能找到些些许许的兴趣支撑着你的精神生活，或许这样的你此时也多多少少会埋怨自己的工作太忙的同时，也满足于你自己还拥有忙碌所带来的充实，开心的甚至有的时候会有点装的炫耀一下“自己的操劳的生活”那么当下的我们面对压力面对机械式的俩点一线朝九晚五又该有什么样的态度？我们这些在城市中的星星点点又与这个城市有着什么样的关系？或冷漠或柔情？为什么这些朝九晚五两点一线的枯燥生活我们仿佛又对他有点不舍？也许答案各不相同，但又有所相同吧。
Thesilhouette of clothes looks like a building. Its structure will be determinedwith reference to armor. The design will be reflected by armor and itsstructure (to show human beings’ protection to their own and defense to theoutside)
The mainelement extracted from building is stairs. For a building, stairs give thespace a feeling of depth. It not only breaks the simple form of the building,but makes the building alive as well. Stair means making progress and strivingto be better.
Myoriginal intention is to reflect on the relationship between time and theuniverse. Stairs in buildings become the theme of my graduation design. Withthe theme, I associate it with people’s lifestyle. Nowadays, most of us leaveour parents to work in another city. All depend on ourselves. Sometimes, wecomplain about the busy work. We are on the go from nine to five, but finallywe don’t know why we are so busy. Life is so dull, so does the work. Some of us may find some hobbies to support spiritual life. We feel busy and complainabout the work, but we can enjoy ourselves from our hobbies or even can show off it. What kind of attitude should we have to the nine-to-five work? How canwe keep ourselves related to the whole city? Cold? Or Warm? Why are weunwilling to give up such boring life?The answers vary but some are similar to some extent.
周仪《twins / 差距大的双胞胎》
讲讲你的毕设主题是什么吧。创意阐述：以孪生子为引，考虑“像”的同时兼顾“异”，并在服装上以一体双生的拥抱和可拆离的两个状态表达“分”、“合”。而延伸开来，也正是表达对群体的一致、个体的独特之间的关系的思考。同时，可变化服装结构也是未来服装发展的重要内容。Taking twins as anexample, consideration should be given to both "likeness" and"difference". In clothing, it is expressed as "separation"and "unity" by means of two detachable parts of one piece. Broadly speaking, it leads to reflections on the relationship between group andindividuals. Moreover, change able clothing structure is a major direction for future clothing development.
其实刚开始的时候，什么都不知道该怎么做。我之前有一个想法就是做可变服装，就是一衣多穿的状态。然后有一天骑车的时候，就突然想到，觉得，之前我是这样的。它是可以拆开。我之前做是因为有一段时间有种每天都在想到底怎么做怎么做，然后那天晚上就做了一个梦。其实那个梦说来很玄，但是其实因为我有一个大我八岁的姐姐，然后我那个梦就很奇怪，我们俩就变成双胞胎了，反正就各种诡异的东西。然后第二天骑车的时候还想到底怎么做，我本来是想做可变化结构，然后我突然想到昨天晚上做的梦，我觉得我可以做这个主题，感觉也挺有意思的。后来我从这个进去以后，我就想做一个，因为本来双胞胎大家有一个传统的观念就是好像一样，或者他们是一个整体的状态，其实他们有可分的地方。然后我就想，可以讨论一下这个分和合的状态不同的感觉，然后就开始做一些东西。刚开始肯定是找一些双胞胎的图片，我一开始想的题目叫差距大的双胞胎。但是做到后来慢慢就想把差距大去掉，因为你不能强调这个东西好像，不一定，不能说那么重要，但是它可能有差距存在。然后我在做的时候之前文本在那边，就是我找了一些图片。然后你会发现有的双胞胎他们差距很大，有的时候可能刚出来的时候大小就不一样，有的异卵的话，它可能是一黑一白的一种存在。然后这对双胞胎是两个人的生活经历就完全不同，一个是生活状态很健康，还有另外一个是整个一个人，比如他抽烟喝酒，生活作息很不规律，他们两个人生其实是不一样的，但是大家对他们统一的概念先想到他们的合，再想到他们的分。然后我就找了一些这样的，包括一个黑人，一个白人。后来就是做一些思考，想这个到底要怎么做，虽然你说要做可变化结构，但是你总要找个点来支撑它，有一些扩散性思维。我想到人体的一些连接，包括他们怎么分，怎么合。后来就开始，这是一些氛围，我试图把两个人拼在一起。然后这是一个艺术家做的，他就在自己脸上画两张脸，我感觉跟我的主题情绪上也蛮符合的。后来就开始尝试画一些草图了。就想着这个结构到底要怎么做。
是有找到哪些意向图吗？
对，我是特意去找，会看很多摄影师的作品，因为我本来这个主题之后我想看别的艺术家关于这个主题在做些什么，我就看了很多很多。这个也是记录一对双胞胎，可能这两个人比较像，但是你看他们像你也不知道他的背后生活状态是什么样的。当时看到这些图再去自己画一些草图。这也是一组。当时我看到这组照片的时候，让我蛮有触动的，就是两个婴儿刚出生他们怀抱在一起的状态。后来我就想到可以做两个人拥抱的状态，就是他本来很契合，但是分开他们又是独立的个体。就这样，我画了一些这样的东西，可能表达上他们是两个人的状态。我去找了一对双胞胎，我对他们做了一个小的采访，但是我感觉不会特别有用，因为如果你真要做的话，可能要大范围了解。
你用的颜料是什么特殊材料吗？
就是传统的湿拓画的颜料。其实这个原来是做书籍装针的，是印书籍编册还有作画来用的。一开始做肯定是传承他们传统的用法，就是他们传统会做像大理石花纹这样的状态。，牙签或者是那种他做一个三排的那种东西就会产生规律的图案。然后这个是前期画的图，后面都没有再用了。就做了很多这样的东西。但是感觉还是，就是感觉传统的东西就会有点土。然后就继续做。后来就想说加一些热转印进去，让它现代感一点，就是一开始做的时候，自己烫。就感觉很牵强，不是特别吻合。后面就做了一些几何，但是也感觉蛮牵强。
Could you share withus the theme of your graduation design?
Actually, at the verybeginning, I had no idea about what to do and how to do it. Previously the idea was to do change able clothing where one piece could be worn in many ways. The idea suddenly hit me when I rode on a bicycle. The clothing is detachable.Before that, I thought deeply all day about how to do it. Then, I had a weird dream. I have a sister, eight years older than me. But in my dream, my sister and I became twins and lots of weird things came in successively. Next day, Iwas pondering over how to do it when riding the bicycle. I planned to choosethe changeable structure. Suddenly, the dream came to my mind. So, I chosetwins as the theme and it seemed quite interesting. When I poured my effort into this theme, I desired to do a quite different thing about twins, because in people's mind, twins are similar or almost identical, but actually they are different in some aspects. That is the reason why I try to express the concept of "separation" and "unity". I was sure that the firstthing I should do was to collect some twins’ photos. The title that came into my mind firstly was twins with big differences. Later, I removed the word “big differences”. It is not a good idea to overstress the differences, which may not be that big. From the photos I collected, I found that some twins are quite different in appearance or even in size. Some fraternal twins may be quitedifferent. One is black and the other white. They have quite different lifeexperience. One seems to lead a healthy life and the other is on the opposite.Maybe he/she smokes or drinks or even leads an irregular life. Actually, thelife that twins lead is not the same. Because of the original concept, peopleare more accustomed to their similarity than differences. I found the twins,one being black and the other white. I had to find the convergence point to support the changeable structure. So the connections in human body flashed intomy minds. I tried to patch two people together. This was made by an artist whodrew two faces in his own face. It, honestly speaking, matched well with mine.Then, I began to draw some sketches to figure out the final solution.
Have you ever foundany useful photos?
Sure. I have deliberately hunted for photos and seen lots of photographers'works. I just wanted to find out what other artists would do about this theme.This is to record twins. They look the same, but we have no idea about what kind of life they lead. After seeing the photos, I tried to draw some sketches.This is also a pair. I was moved by such a pair of twins. They held each otherwhen they just came to the world. So a good idea flied to my mind that I could draw a picture when they embraced. They fit each other but each is anindependent individual when they are apart. So, here come my pictures likethese. They are twins, but look like two independent individuals. And I found apair of twins and interviewed them. I felt it is not much helpful. If I reallywanted to do it, it would be better to make a broad investigation.
Are they some specialmaterials that you use for the colors?
It is just a kind oftraditional pigment for Ebru. It is actually used for book binding, bookcompilation and drawing. At the very beginning, the traditional method is inherited, like marbling. Regular patterns will be created via toothpicks orsomething with three rows. This is the previous picture, never used later. Ihave made lots of things like these. Frankly, the traditional material seems alittle unfashionable. Then I adopted thermal transfer printing to make it lookmodern. But it felt a little strange. Then some geometric designs were added,but it still looked far-fetched.
后续还会有更多精彩内容，将持续更新！敬请关注我们的官方微信公众号！
- To becontinued -
策划团队
Cloudscape
天地云间-中国美术学院毕业季
2016.5.27-6.2
策划：2016届视觉传达设计系多维设计工作室
多维设计指导：陈正达
服装设计指导：陶音 / 萧颖娴
视觉总监： 陈正达
视觉形象设计：王强 / 文皓宇 / 梁献文 / 张上晨
编辑设计：罗木子 / 刘嘉一 / 王强 / 文皓宇 / 梁献文 / 张上晨
黄榕 / 丛颖 / 郭敦豪 / 易柳汝 / 倪帅
视频策划：林衍兆 / 万里程 / 王禹焜 / 张露 / 徐兰玢 / 陈焕璀
静态展空间设计：王强 / 张露
媒体推广：张上晨 / 倪帅
特别鸣谢：
Mao Studio 摄影工作室
尚坤源中国国际大学生时装周
北京751D-PARK第一车间
杭州凤凰创意国际
新澳textile+
江苏金龙科技股份有限公司
杭丝时装进出口有限公司
哥本哈根皮草
A4 Gallery
DESIGN DESIGN GROUP
展览信息
中国美术学院2016毕业展
/GRADUATION EXHIBITION OF CAA“染织与服装设计系服装专业”与“视觉传达设计系多维设计工作室”联合毕业设计
/MULTIDIMENSIONAL DESIGN STUDIO AND DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN
时间：2016 / 05 / 27 － 06 / 02
地点：中国美术学院象山校区20号楼体育馆
No.Building 20, Xiangshan Campus of CAA,
No.352 Xiangshan Rd, Zhuantang Town,
Hangzhou,China
关注 Youniverse2016多维策划
微信扫一扫关注公众号
