跨越界限的ADIFF：时装不只为时尚

毕业于Parsons设计学院的90后设计师AngelaLuna为难民设计了一套专属服装，名为：ADIFF。获得年度最佳女装设计师殊荣并在全球顶尖媒体上亮相的她分享了自己对时尚的深刻见解，发放衣服给难民的愿景，作品的设计过程及未来发展规划。...





跨越界限的ADIFF：时装不只为时尚

Crossing Boundaries with ADIFF:

Fashion not for the sake of Fashion

毕业于Parsons设计学院的90后设计师AngelaLuna为难民设计了一套专属服装，名为：ADIFF。获得年度最佳女装设计师殊荣并在全球顶尖媒体上亮相的她分享了自己对时尚的深刻见解，发放衣服给难民的愿景，作品的设计过程及未来发展规划。

Millennial designer and recent Parsons School of Design Graduate, Angela Luna, created a multifunctional collection under the brand ADIFF to help out Syrian refugees. Recently winning Designer of the Year Womenswear Award and showcased on top global media, Angela shares with us her in depth perception on Fashion, her sincere and growing concerns of refugees, and how she plans on helping distributing the clothes to refugees, the complex designs behind the collection and her plans for the future.



“ 它是对现实社会的宣言：将全球问题融于时尚。人们眼中的时尚属于有钱人且与全球热点无关，是时候改变观点了。”

“It is a statement of current events: not making a trend out of tragedy,but channeling major global issues into fashion.  It is as much as a political statement as a fashion statement.  Fashion is often considered superfluous and detached from global concerns, and now is the time to create change.”

ADIFF的设计灵感 Creating the Adiff Brand



灵感源自一种无助感。一天，我熬夜研究难民危机，看到又一起海难时，一股汹涌的同理心吞噬着我，只想出一份力。但我在纽约主修时装，除了捐款，似乎束手无策了。第二天课上大家讨论新季时装秀时，才发觉我们怎能安心坐在教室假装另一半球的安宁？后来我将论文主题换成难民危机，当时很忐忑，但我学的是时装设计，要想帮忙也只能从这入手了。

This collection for me really came from a sense of helplessness. For the past few years, I have always tried to be involved in current events. One night I was up late researching the Refugee Crisis, it was just after there had been another horrible boat crash in the Aegean Sea, and I felt this overwhelming sense of empathy and desire to offer whatever I can to help these people. But I live in New York. I study fashion. Besides donating to a refugee charity, it didn’t seem like I could do much. The next day at class, as my professors and classmates were discussing the latest runway shows, I found myself reflecting on how distant this issue was from our daily lives - how could we be sitting in this classroom, acting as if people are not dying on the other side of the world? I questioned whether or not I should be in the industry, whether or not I should even be in fashion? So later that week I informed my professors that I was going to change the concept for my thesis to focus on the Refugee Crisis. At that point, I had no idea what the end result would look like, I just knew that I wanted to help, and since my skill set was in design and fashion, I had no other choice.



“ 为解决难民切身需求，我阅读并收集了大量材料、还请教了人道主义机构。这一系列的每件外套都有实际用途。其中2件可以搭帐篷，小号容纳2人，超大号容纳5-6人。

“It’s a collection of outerwear jackets that serve multiple transformable purposes. Each jacket responds to an issue that a refugee faces on a daily basis. I did this through a vast amount of research. I was online a lot of the time, reading articles, collecting images, talking to humanitarian agencies, trying to figure out which issues could be addressed through design. There are two jackets in the collection that convert into tents, one of them is a smaller size tent that can fit about two people comfortably and then the other jacket fits about a family of five to six people, so that one is very large.




1件变身睡袋，1件变身背包，1件正面反光、背面不反光，考虑到难民有时需要被发现有时需要隐藏。

There’s also a jacket that converts into a sleeping bag, a jacket that converts into a backpack, and another jacket that is entirely reflective on oneside, on the inside it’s reversible. It’s designed for hiding because I know refugees do have issues with needing to be seen and needing to hide at other times.









1件浮力夹克，上岸放气后能继续当衣服穿。

Another one was an inflatable floatable jacket, so there is a panel you can blow up with air and it can keep you a float in the water, you can deflate it when you get to land and wear it for the rest of your journey.



1件可拆卸背带的母婴夹克。”

There’s also a child-carrying jacket as well that has a removable baby harness.”


设计中的技术难题

The technical difficulties in creating this collection

下定决心关注难民危机后就该考虑解决设计难题，尤其是支撑问题，一般衣物服帖就好，我还要考虑力学和避免下垂。

After I decided to focus on the refugee crisis, the next step was figuring out which problems could be addressed through design. Although I wish I could address all the problems I noticed, I had to select ones that could potentially be resolved throughout the course of my thesis - actually several jackets didn't even get designed until the second portion of the year, when I could approach the problem from adifferent standpoint. This was done through massive amounts of research from articles, image collection, videos, and interviews with humanitarian agencies. After identifying the problems came the incredibly difficult task of engineering of the garments, which in a several cases involved making free standing structures. Usually with fashion, you need to be sure it stays on the body, but in my caseit also had to stand up by itself, battling gravity.



服装的设计开发耗时最久，每件都难以轻易完成，从9月到来年4月，我一直亲历而为。服装设计出身的我发现晚礼服与功能性外套在细节设计上有很多共性。导师总说夹克最难做好，其次是合身的束带。

The design development took the longest of all, there was not a single jacket of the collection that was easy, especially because I personally constructed the mall, but that was what I liked best about it. We had the whole school year to develop this thesis, so I was working on it from September through the end of April. I thought that in order to still be interested and involved the entire time, I had to choose a concept that was incredibly difficult and would take me all year to figure out. Coming from a couture background, I will say that a lot of the attention to detail and precision from making evening wear is echoed with the high-tech functionality and techniques of making outerwear. My professors always told me that the hardest thing to make is a jacket, and the second hardest is a fitted corset.





将来打算与运动大牌合作吗？

These products can also be sold to global sports wear brands such as The North Face, Decathlon, Patagonia etc. do you plan in collaborating with them in the future?

目前没收到任何邀请，但我对合作持开放态度，只需对方也有投身慈善事业的决心。我不希望ADIFF仅是短暂一季的“胶囊系列”，它能经得起时间考验。因此，只要不改变人道主义的本质，我愿意与大牌分享创意。

I am extremely open for conversation or collaboration with these brands, although have not been approached by them as of yet. My main goal is to be sure that anyone I collaborate with has similar intentions and dedication to philanthropy. I see this project as more than just a one-season capsule collection - from the interest I have received, I whole-heartedly believe that it could be a brand that lasts years. So yes, I am open to sharing my ideas with these larger brands, as long as the project remains humanitarian driven.

ADIFF的商业模式是什么？

如何平衡人道主义需求与利润间的关系？

Can you explain the business model of ADIFF, how does it balance humanitarian needs with profit and sustainability?

我会秉承Tom’s鞋“买一捐一”的商业模式。理想价位在$50-$300之间，满足大众消费需求。该系列既适合曼哈顿街头的时尚达人，也适合追求实用的丛林远足者，更重要地是符合难民需求。

The collection will be sold towards an outerwearmarket: I'm calling the jackets "outerwear anywhere," so you can wear it for long distance hiking, camping, or even just on the streets in New York where people will be buying into a brand that promotes awareness and large scale donations similar to Tom’s One for One concept. The ideal price point is from $50-$300 creating an inclusive brand and not an exclusive one. Moreover, the collection is stylish enough to be worn on the streets of Manhattan and practical enough to be worn on a hike in the woods, but specifically created with the intention of being worn by refugees.



我们的部分利润将投入类似服装的改造中，再捐给当地难民以降低成本。一位黎巴嫩难民营工作者告诉我“他们不在乎衣服的颜色，只关心它是否结实、能否御寒。”我会尽量满足这一点。因此，你买的每件ADIFF都是在帮助他人。

With every purchase, a portion of the proceeds will go towards the production and distribution of edited versions of the most relevant garments, which will be donated to refugees on location. By editing the donated items, production costs can be dramatically reduced so that more product could be donated. After speaking with a refugee camp field worker in Lebanon, she told me that "while the clothing is beautiful, refugees do not care about what color their jacket is, they just care that it will stay together and keep them warm." The donated items will respond to this statement. So by purchasing anything from the brand, you are helping someone in need.



ADIFF所有布料都选自可再生资源。我坚信人道主义公司也能做到商品的全球供应。

All clothing will be ethically produced with sustainable materials. I fully believe that a humanitarian company is only as good as its global supply chain.ADIFF将来的发展是什么？

What are the next and future steps for ADIFF and how do you personally see ADIFF's growth for the future?

我们要抓紧运作起来，从生产销售和捐赠起步！我不是那种容易自满的人，但第一轮衣物捐赠结束后，我由衷地感到高兴。我会尽我所能坚持下去，生产更多、帮助更多，把它作为未来的奋斗目标。希望将它做成线上线下共存的规模型品牌，让ADIFF成为国际捐赠事业的领头羊。

The immediate goal is to get it up and running, starting with production and sales, and donating! I'm not generally the kind ofperson who is satisfied with her work, but the day I get the first round of donations to refugees, I will feel that joy. I want to keep this project going as long as it can, produce even more innovative garments, and help as many people possible. All my future actions will be in service of this goal. I see this as a large, mass production brand that has a major online and in store presence. I hope Adiff can one day be a leader contributor to global donationsand awareness.





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